Spitfires for 2013

The new year looks good for Spitfires.  Even my planned theme builds align mostly to Spitfires, so unless I get distracted by some special Kit-That-Must-Be-Built I hope to complete quite a few.

To be reported over on my other blog, the list is extensive and if I can sneak in a couple of additional models, I certainly will.  I like doing multiple builds of the same kit, such as my modifications of the Airfix Spitfire I/IIa kit into a Mk Va and PR Mk XIII.  Both are very straightforward and the only challenge is finding decals...well not so challenging given all the available decals out there.

I'm also looking forward to another Seafire.  I finished that CMR FR.47 at the end of 2011 and after looking at my Merlin Seafires on the shelf, I need to update the stable with some better looking kits.  My old conversions from Airfix Mk Vb/c kits are just not cutting it anymore and other than an example of my skills 5 years ago, need replacing.  I'll include photos of those older builds alongside my updated models, of course, but I doubt I'll do the same subjects.  Too many good subjects out there to keep redoing the same ones.

My Spitfire/Seafire plan for 2013:

• Frog Spitfire Mk XIV with V-1 (drones or unmanned)
• CMR Speed Spitfire (Need for Speed)
• Airfix Spitfire IX as Dr Who Spitfire in Space (Science Fiction)
• AZ Model Isreali and Egyptian Spitfires (Friend and Foe)
• CMR Seafire F.IIc (Anniversary)
• Hasegawa RAAF Spitfire VIII (Down Under)
• Heller SAAF Spitfire XVI (Korean War -- loose connection here)
• Airfix Hawk T.1 in Spitfire commemorative scheme (Build The Same Kit)
• Sword Spitfire VI (Failures -- okay, the VI worked, but not as well as it should have)

Plus I plan to clear out my queue of "in work" Spitfires:

• Airfix Spitfire XIII conversion (paint & decals)
• Airfix Spitfire Va (paint & decals)
• MPM Spitfire XVIII (assembly)
• Fujimi Spitfire XIVe (assembly)

And of course, make some progress on that Spitfire Mk III.  I'm nearly ready to cut some fuselages...

Thanks for reading...

Looking Back at 2012

Really?  Not a single Spitfire all year?!

One could call this my Mayan apocalypse.  I did at least start 4 Spitfires...

But I got totally sidetracked by the Museum builds.  One of which was not something I signed up for, and the other was a total drag as it was the Matchbox Halifax.  Not a bad kit, but I wanted more out of my build than I should have expected.

Now for my guilt trip...it seems that somebody is actually reading what I write.  The number one post, in terms of pageviews, is my Fujimi FR Mk XIVe from earlier this year.  A close second is 2011's CMR Prototype Spitfire K5054.  Over on my non-Spitfire page the top read post is about Academy's F4F Wildcat -- go figure.  What about these subjects makes them interesting?  What did I put in them that is causing them to pop on search engines?  Obviously I should post more...

And in that vein, I need to make more progress on my Spitfire III.  I pick it up every weekend, but put it back down after pondering the surgery needed to make it.  That Matchbox Halifax and the Revell Condor are not ego boosters for me, in terms of my skills.  And I totally botched two Tamiya Spitfires last year attempting to cross kit and make a cannon-armed Mk I and Mk Va.

I did complete 15 models for the year, and I may actually sneak in another before year's end.

Hopefully everyone has a great holiday; I know I will, even if I only handle some plastic instead of actually finishing a model!

Thanks for ready...Merry Christmas!

Sword XVI Preview

Sword Spitfire Mk XVI “Bubble” canopy SW72052

Back in May I was on vacation in London and was able to visit an IPMS UK show at Hendon.  What a treat!  But that’s a story for another day, as they say.  While there I picked up Sword’s recent release of their Spitfire Mk XVI at a very good price.  Given I saved shipping costs to the US, and import duties, this kit only cost me about $18 US, or about $5 less than here in the US.

What makes a Mk XVI?  The short answer: it’s basically a Mk IX with a US Packard built Merlin 266.  The mark was produced in both high back and low back (bubble) variants.  I understand that a few of the early production had the “c” armament of 2x 20mm cannon and 4x .303 guns, but the majority were the “e” wing armament of 2x 20mm cannon and 2x .50 guns.  Other than the serial number there is no real way to tell the difference in photos of a Mk IX and Mk XVI.  “Typically” if it’s a low back then it’s a Mk XVI, as the vast majority were produced with the bubble canopy; and the majority of Mk IX were of the high back.  Most also were built with clipped wingtips to lessen stress on the wing spar during rolls; by the last year of the war the Mk XVI was generally used in the low-level ground support role with 2nd TAF.

This kit has very fine, recessed panel lines.  And I mean very fine.  If you use a hairy stick to paint with, be prepared to lose some of the detail, and keep your paint thin for airbrushing as well!  This makes for a very accurate look, of course.  

Additional detail is just as good, such as a well detailed cockpit.  Much more than I need as I always build with the canopy closed (...dust).  The canopy is provided as two pieces to allow showing off the interior.  The cannon and gun barrels are provided as resin (very nice!) and there are two resin alternatives for the engine exhausts; fishtail and the later round type.

Interestingly, my sample had one half of the high back fuselage that is on the original sprue.  A shame as that would have provided real value if both were there as I could have corrected that awful Italeri Mk IX...  The low back fuselage is provided on a separate sprue.

Plenty of folks elsewhere have checked this and the other Sword Spitfires against plans, and they are spot on accurate.  I did not check as I trust those experts at Britmodeller.

Kit includes things under the wings like two bombs with their racks and choice of slipper tanks; these are typically not provided in a Spitfire kit so this is very welcome given the typical mission of the Mk XVI.  I look forward to hanging these on.

Markings are provided for 4 aircraft of 2nd TAF late in the war:

1. TB625/OU-V of 485 Squadron, “Rongotea” flown by Warrant Officer M.J.C. Lind out of Fassburg, Germany, April 1945.
2. TB886/AU-J of 421 Squadron, “Dorothy” flown out of Reinsehlen, Germany, May 1945.
3. TD240/WX-V of 302 (Polish) Squadron, “Janetka” flown by Squadron Leader Boleslaw Kaczmarek, 1945.
4. TD317/ZF-P of 308 Squadron flown by Squadron Leader K. Pniak, 1945.

The only Sword kit I’ve actually completed was one of their Hurricanes, and the decals were very nice.

Obviously a comparison has to be made to the other Mk XVI kits available.  These are the old Heller and KP kits.  Hands down this Sword is much better.  Both Heller and KP have raised panel lines and nearly no detail in the cockpit.  Both are fairly accurate in shape, albeit the Heller kit has too deep radiators (an easy fix).  I’ve got quite a few of the Heller kits because I can find them for $2 or less at swap meets.  But if adding an aftermarket cockpit and vacform canopy the price is nearly as much as the Sword kit.  Considering the Heller decals are so off in color, you’re in for more than the Sword kit.

I like scratch building a cockpit for the Spitfire and with a closed canopy it works, so I’ll keep those Heller kits to use up some spare decals.

The KP is typically $5 or more, so I don’t recommend it as bringing it up to the Sword in terms of appearance will cost significantly more than the Sword.

So from a value perspective, the Sword is well over the top.  

Watch this space for a side-by-side build with the Heller Spitfire Mk XVI.

Thanks for reading.

Airfix Spitfires

Airfix released 23 Spitfires in 4 scales over the last 57 years and their objective is to release one of each mark, in 72nd scale anyway. As the premier kitmaker foe Britain youd think their kits of their most iconic aircraft would be the best there is.   Unfortunately, some have been pretty horrible as either kits, Spitfires or both. Most are accurate, albeit detail is usually sparse (in the smaller scales anyway) and if one gets past the construction issues a fine Spitfire can be had. 

In two parts I'll cover all 23 to date, in this first part I'll cover the lone 100th & the 72nd scale kits. Next month I'll cover the 48th & their 24th scale kits.  Most of my information on dates and kit numbers are taken from The Airfix Tribute Forum. 

100th Scale

Okay, technically not Airfix, in 2007 they released under the Airfix label the Doyusha tooling of a Mark Vb as kit number T1002.  Considered “pretty good” they typically come pre-painted and sometimes are released with a motorized prop. 

72nd Scale

Airfix began their aircraft models with a release of the BT-K in 1955. Based on the Aurora kit, it was scaled down to 72nd.  It is a very basic kit; its shape is definitely a Spitfire albeit not the most accurate; it is more for the beginner or nostalgic modeler. Only available until 1959 when it was replaced by their first Mark IX and is a collector's item today. The kit number was 1316, which is the same number for their Mark IX. 

Not to be confused with their first true Mark I, released in 1979 as kit number 01065, and re-released in 2003 in the BT-K bag. 

In 1959 Airfix released a Mark IX to replace the BT-K Spitfire. Also not very accurate it had markings for Wing Commander Johnnie E. Johnson's Mark IX. Originally kit number 1316, from 1988-2007 it was listed as 02081 and is generally available. Referred to as "the JEJ kit" it only looks like a Spitfire if it's the only one on the shelf. 

Airfix released a Mark Vb in 1975.  Still regarded as very accurate in shape and exterior detail. Of note, the raised detail is considered by purists to be the most accurate representation of the lapped joints along the panel lines. However Modelers in general prefer engraved panel lines, even if the most crisply done are actually over scale.  Still available as kit number 02046. 

A Mark Vc was later released in 2005 by adding a sprue to the basic Vb kit representing the revised wing armament. The new kit number is 02040.  Unfortunately the wing is overly thick and suffers engraved panel lines not in keeping with the Vb kit. The good news is a tropical filter is provided as well as parts to modify the fuselage to a Seafire, which were added in 2009 for an Airfix Club FAA release. The decals are also quite good. It's apparent the Vc sprue is just a scaling down of their so-so 48th scale Spitfire/Seafire kit as it can also be made into a Vb, Vc or Seafire Ib, IIc or III; suffering from the same faults as the 72nd boxing.

If one can find an Aeroclub c wing, which is quite good and was specifically designed as a replacement part for this kit, a very accurate Vc, or Seafire IIc can be made. 

As mentioned earlier, in 1979 Airfix released a new Mark I, much better in shape than their earlier BT-K. This new kit was very similar in quality to their Vb kit.  The Mark I and their Vb were the basis for all aftermarket products to upgrade, convert or super detail an early Spitfire for the next 20 years. Originally listed as kit number 01065, renumbered a few times but mostly as a variation of 01071, don't be confused by the recent (2010) A01071A that is a new tooling.

After Hornby bought Airfix they pledged to keep the label.  Eventually they released a new, modern tooling of the Mark I in a new red box. Very accurate in shape it also sported a highly detailed cockpit. It's only drawback is overly wide and deep panel lines; it seemed Hornby hired the Matchbox engraver!  This kit is available in both a starter's kit as well as the original and is considered more accurate even than Tamiya's Mark I. Kit number A01071A.  Also included in sets 55100, 50128, 50135, and 50143. 

A company called 3D-Kits shortly thereafter released a double sprue set containing an improved seat, control column, Coffman starter bulge and DH prop to allow conversion of either this new Mark I, the older Mark I or even the Tamiya Mark I to a Mark IIa. Also included were decals for 4 machines. 

In 2011 Airfix released this kit with an additional sprue containing parts to model an early Mark I (2 bladed Watts prop, flat canopy, pole antenna) as well as a Mark IIa (Coffman starter bulge and DH prop). Although no decals are in the box for it, the Rotol prop and enlarged oil cooler are on the sprue to allow the modeler to make a Mark Va. Unfortunate for 3D-Kits who now offer just the decals. Kit number A02010.

3D-Kits does offer a nice conversion for this kit to make the Mark IIa LR (long range). Just a simple conformal fuel tank for one wing, it includes decals. 

In 2009, Airfix released a Mark IXc to replace their 1959 tooling. Long needed in 72nd was an accurate kit and Airfix did not disappoint, however it was not as good, overall, as their recent Mark I. No cockpit to speak of, very similar to their toolings from the 1970's with a recliner for a seat and a plastic semicircle for the instrument panel, not even a decal!  Sporting similar deep panel lines, they weren't quite as bad as the Mark I. Parts were in the box to make an early or late Mark IXc and even a post-war mark, however only the wheels for a late Mark IXc were included (4 spokes). The prop is a bit anemic but is passable and the decals are very good.

Also in 2009 a PR Mark XIX variant was released, their first Griffon engined kit in 72nd scale.  Kit number 02017, it is very similar to the Mark IXc in detail, it does suffer from being too short by about 4 scale inches (it's the length of a late Merlin Spitfire, not a Griffon). Still a very nice kit to build, it's a toss up whether to improve this inexpensive kit or to pay top dollar for the difficult to find Fujimi XIX that also must be converted, albeit from a F Mark XIV. 

Not yet available in the US, Airfix announced a F Mark 22 for release for 2012, I'm still looking for a reboxing of their Mark I/IIa/Va as Wing Commander Douglas Bader's Va he was in when he was shot down and taken prisoner in 1941.

Fujimi FR Mk XIVe

Supermarine Spitfire FR Mk XIVe, 'F', 2 Squadron, Germany, 1947. 

I wrongly collected 2 extra Fujimi kits of the Mk XIVe rear view (bubble top) Spitfire thinking these were externally identical to the Mk XVIII.  My desire was to build two Far East subjects, only to find out later I'd mis-interpreted the information I had. Getting better references helped immeasurably (okay it's measured by the loss of pocket money I must now spend to get the correct kits).

The Fujimi kit is not without it's flaws, detractors or fans. Somewhat easy to find, not too expensive, a bit over engineered to allow for 4 variants (PR XIX, F XIVc, F XIVe, and F XIVe rear view), but not too difficult a build. The cockpit is wrong but easily fixed, I left mine as is. Here's an easy mod of the kit to FR standard, which most rear view XIVe marks were. 

The Aircraft

In late 1944, as the rear view (the formal name of the bubble top variants) Spitfire F Mk XIV was being developed and produced, the RAF desired a photo-reconnaissance version. After some debate over the mark number and whether it would be called a PR or FR or F Mk XIV (PR) the Air Ministry decided on FR for fighter-reconnaissance. 

As the rear view was basically a refined F Mk XIVe, Supermarine also added, and the Air Ministry accepted, the additional refinements necessary to carry one oblique and up to two vertical cameras. The specification was approved for introduction in 5 stages with Stage 1 being the basic mark. Stage 2 introduced the rear view; stage 3 added the oblique camera with rear fuel tank; stage 4 added the vertical cameras; and finally stage 5 added a second rear fuselage tank. Of note is that all this added equipment weight was offset by removing the ballast necessary in the tail due to the heavier Griffon engine.

My references indicate only 120 FR Mk XIVe were made, deliveries beginning in early 1945, in addition to the few conversions and test examples. Serials were TX974-998, TZ102-149, 152-176, and 178-199. 

The subject of my model has an unknown serial number, but is coded 'F'. All were delivered to Northern Europe in the Day Fighter Scheme of Dark Green, Ocean Grey, over Medium Sea Grey with Sky band and spinner and yellow wing leading edge. For assignment to 2nd TAF the Sky spinner was repainted Night and the Sky band over painted. For the tactical reconnaissance role, the roundels were all the same size and type at 36 inches. 

I've two references that state the paint scheme actually used was the low-level PR scheme of Extra Dark Sea Green, Extra Dark Sea Grey over PRU Mauve, however this has been universally refuted as highly unlikely. 

Reference: Spitfire the History, RAF Fighters 1945-1950 Overseas Based, Spitfire in Action

The Model

The Fujimi kit is a very good kit even with its faults. Care must be taken to make the minor mods needed when building one of the variants the basic kit can make. While the instructions generally provide most of the needed specifics, the kit is based on research done on restored aircraft so additional work is required to be accurate. As an example, other than a few early Mk XII airframes, all Griffon Spitfires had a retractable tail wheel based on the Mk III prototype. The Fujimi kit models the tail wheel down and with the door outlines; many restored Griffon Spitfires have this feature for ease of maintenance and reliability, but only rarely on operational machines.

As mentioned earlier, the cockpit is not accurate; it is represented by a half-tube or tub.  The seat is ok and the control column is right.  The instrument panel is just a half-circle disk, so I used a printed panel glued on.  With some masking tape seat belts and the canopy closed up, it will all look okay.  My other one will get a proper cockpit, either scratched or aftermarket.

I like the prop assembly on this kit.  It’s easy to paint, and although the blades are separate it assembles easily and looks the part when done.  

To correct the kit to make the FR Mk XIVe, one must do the following:

• Scratch a boat antenna;
• Use 3 spoke wheels;
• Create camera ports both port and starboard;
• Use the short span wingtips;
• Add a whip antenna;
• Correct the retractable tail wheel, with doors.

An additional feature that I’ve yet to determine is whether it should have round or fishtail exhausts.  Since I could not find a photo showing round, I used the kit exhausts.  My subject is post-war and many post-war machines were retrofitted with round exhausts.  

Boat Antenna

Unfortunately I’ve not been able to find a good drawing or photo of this antenna.  I’m the only one in my local area who knows it’s supposed to have one, so I decided to ignore it for now.  Eventually I’ll figure out what they look like, correct the model and post updated photos here.

3 Spoke Wheels

I believe all Mk XIVe had these due to the required capability for carriage of bombs.  The few photos I’ve got show them.  Unfortunately the kit has 4 spoke wheels.  I did not have any 3 spoke wheels in my spares box, so I stuck with the kit wheels.

Camera Ports

Unlike the PR XIX, which has a camera port on the left side, and 2 underneath, the FR XIVe has a port on both sides, opposite each other.  Since the kit has all 4 ports marked, it was easy to drill them out using a 1/16th in bit, which looked the right size by eye.  I then filled them with Microscale Micro Krystal Klear.

Short Span Wings

My references indicate the Mk XIV wings had a tendency to wrinkle under use.  So eventually all were required to have the short span wings to lessen the stresses on them.  Easy enough as the kit offers this option.

Whip Antenna

Most photos don’t seem to show an antenna for the rear view configured Spitfires.  It’s there, but is a short whip antenna installed about 3 scale inches aft of frame 18 and slightly to the right of the centerline of the fuselage.  Frame 18 is the one behind the aft camera that faces downward.  I used invisible thread, about 12 scale inches long.

Tail Wheel & Doors

As mentioned before, Fujimi molded the doors closed and provided the tailwheel as a fixed unit; used by some operational aircraft post-war and a typical modification of modern Griffon powered Spitfires (Rudy Frasca’s Mk 18 is configured with the tailwheel fixed down).  I carefully cut the doors out, then with some judicious sanding was able to use them on the kit.  I cut a piece of sprue and fitted into the hole for the tail wheel to fit.  

For decals I went to my spares; 36 inch national marking III in all six positions plus the 24 inch square fin flash marking (i).  If / when I get some Sky letters I’ll add the fuselage code letter “F”.

Thanks for looking.

“Land of the Morning Calm”

CMR Seafire FR.47

Vickers-Supermarine Seafire FR.47, VP459, 179/P, 800 Squadron, HMS Triumph, 1950

Introduction

I’d longed for a Seafire FR.47 for years; I was tempted to get the old vacform by Rareplanes but kept putting it off.  Mainly due to cost as it was a rare kit to find but also because the other Rareplanes kit I’d built back in the early ‘90’s didn’t come out too well; which somewhat scared me off vacs for a while (but that's another story as they say).  I was not aware of the Ventura kit from down under until recently, when Jays began re-releasing them.  

So when CMR released their resin kit I was very interested.  While the price was steep, I was willing to buy, but had no experience with resin kits.  So, off I went to find a low cost CMR on sale somewhere to gain some experience.  I found them at WestCoastHobbys, lower cost than eBay and much lower than the US distributer.  After a few builds were behind me I purchased the FR.47 and this year decided it was time to actually make it.  I had some good stock of accurate paints and the kit came with the exact scheme I wanted.  Plus, my local club decided to acknowledge the 60^th anniversary of the Korean War with a theme for November, "Land of the Morning Calm".

The Aircraft

When the North Koreans invaded the South HMS Triumph was operating in the western Pacific. Her, along with some US carriers were quickly dispatched to Korean waters to provide air support to the UN forces retreating down the peninsula. 

800 Squadron was onboard with the last embarked Seafire squadron and provided escort to her Firefly strike aircraft as well as providing some light strike capability as required. Additionally she received tasking to escort B-29s as they bombed targets in the north.

It was on one of these early B-29 escort missions that B-29 gunners fired on their escorts – they looked too much like the attacking Yak-9’s – that the FAA began applying Night/White identification stripes to the wings and empennage. 

By late Fall, 1950, the air wing was tired and needed relieving. HMS Triumph returned to England where 800 Squadron proceeded to trade in her Seafires for another Supermarine product, the Attacker.

Reference:  Spitfire the History, Squadron in Action, Warpaint Series No. 20, On Target Profiles 5

The Model

CMR make just about every Mark of the Spitfire and Seafire in 72nd scale, from the prototypes (both variations of K5054) through to both the Spiteful and Seafang. If one wants a very accurate model of their subject, CMR can provide it; however the buyer must know that accuracy comes with a price. CMR kits are expensive but in my opinion are well worth it. The detail is exceptional and even my feeble attempts are made to look that much better.

After cleaning up the resin by removing the parts from the pour-stubs and washing them with liquid hand soap I was ready to paint.  Generally I use an airbrush and shot everything with interior grey-green (albeit I use Tamiya XF-21 Sky as it looks more "scale") and then painted the night/black areas with Mr Color Midnight Blue.  I feel this color has that bluish tinge to it that Night should have, plus it is more of a dark gray color, so I use it for props and other areas calling for Night.

I bent all the PE for the cockpit into the right shapes, really a simple affair and it came out so well I almost went against my own policy of never opening up the cockpit.  I drilled out the prop shaft location at the nose to ensure my contra-props would spin, more on that later...

The fuselage went together very easily, requiring almost no filler.  One reason I like these resin kits is that I can use a strong solvent like acetone to smooth seams after filling and it doesn't affect the resin or detail.  The wing was test fitted and as I've found with CMR kits don't glue the lower fuselage seam until the wing is on because it may need some sanding or fitting of a spacer to make it fit just right.  This kit was no different as the forward fuselage between the leading edge of the wing and the nose didn't quite fit properly.  If I closed up the seam then there was a wide gap at the wing roots forward; if I eliminated the wing root gaps there was a gap under the nose.

So after studying drawings and photos it was obvious the wing roots should have no gaps and the nose should have not gap either; meaning a slight V-shaped gap existed with the pointy end of the "V" was forward.  After getting everything aligned I ran some super glue and made it all permanent.  Then filled in the "V" with plasticard and filler.

To allow my props to be removed and also to spin (young hands always want to spin the prop!) I always glue a sheet of plastic about an inch from the nose inside the fuselage.  As mentioned earlier I also drill out the prop shaft location and before I put the wings on I glue a tube that can take a rod, usually a 16th inch rod into a 8th inch tube with a 16th inch inner diameter (of course).  Unfortunately the contra-prop meant I needed another tube with an 8th inch inner diameter.  Unfortunately I had nothing with a small enough outer diameter to fit inside the Seafire's nose, so off to the hardware store.  Eventually I found a brass sleeve for something or other related to plumbing that was perfect.

The CMR kit comes with a choice of either individual blades for the spinners or fully build up props/spinners.  I'm not real good at prop alignment so I decided to use the ones CMR build up for me.  After cleaning the flash off they look okay, but could be better.  I may build those spares up someday and swap them out; easy enough since I make my props removable and able to spin!  

After priming and minor cleanup of imperfections I shot the entire model with Humbrol 90. This is actually an older tin of Super Enamel that is a very good match to Sky. Newer tins produced by Hornby are not quite the same color, unfortunately. So I use my Humbrol 90 sparingly...

I then masked off the areas for the stripes, shot the white and then removed all the tape to let the paint cure for a week. Next weekend I masked the stripes and lower surfaces and with a mix I found on the internet for Tamiya paints, I shot the Extra Dark Sea Grey (EDSG). That mix, by the way, is: "to 50 parts of XF24 dark gray, add 6 parts XF2 white and 3 parts XF8 flat blue." It looks right to my eye, not having that greenish tinge some paint makers insist is EDSG or the very dark gray that is near to a version of Night.

After all the paint had cured well, a good week, I decided to use a technique a member of my club swears by: spit. Okay, what that really means is an old cotton t-shirt rubbed on the surface with some spit to moisten it. There's just enough friction to buff the paint up to a nice satin finish without affecting the detail or wearing through the paint. It was smooth enough not to require any Future/Klear as an undercoat to the decals!

The kit decals were very thin and went on with Micro-Set (blue label) followed by a quick dash of Micro-Sol (red label) after they'd dried to ensure they settled completely down into the recessed panel lines. Remaining details were put on and the final piece remained: THE VAC CANOPY. My nemesis...

I tackled the canopy by trimming it down to what appeared to be the canopy frame outer mold line. First using very coarse sanding sticks and progressing down to fine until I was taking almost nothing off with each swipe. I then tried a dry fit and to my disbelief it fit the first time! Perfect. Painted the framing with Night, used a wooden pick to clean the edges, then painted the EDSG. Dipped it in Future/Klear to make the clear canopy really pop. On it went with Gator Grip -- I love this stuff as it dries quick and clear. A quick drill for the whip antennae, which is just a short piece of invisible thread, and she was done.

All-in-all about 30 hours of modeling spread over 3 months. I'm pleased and it enjoys a place of honor, at the front and at eye level.

Thanks for looking...

2012 Goals

Okay, 2011 was a very good year for me.  Nine Spitfires/Seafires completed!  I've got an ambitious 2012 planned as I've indicated over on my other blog; but only 5 Spitfires/Seafires are in the mix:

• CMR Seafire XV
• Airfix Spitfire Va (new tooling)
• Airfix Spitfire II LR (new tooling)
• Airfix Spitfire IXc (new tooling)
• Sword Spitfire Vc

I've got a Sword Mk XVIe on the way, and I may put that in and take out the Airfix Mk IXc.  It all depends on my progress with the others, the Airfix kit is so easy/quick it's almost a weekend build.  Of course, I have that box of parts waiting for me to carve and glue a Spitfire Mk III from, but I still have quite a bit of information gathering to do on that one, like paint scheme and where exactly to cut the wings, for starters.

Thanks for looking...