Telford 2013

10 November 2013

So one of the things I got to do at Telford this year was sit in a real Spitfire. It's not a flyer, and has a few things that are actually fiberglass, but the fuselage is a real Mk IX with some history behind it.

I joined up with Jim Rotramel who came over to see family and of course do Telford while he's here.











Thanks for looking...

LF IXe, 5531, Air Operations School, AFS Langebaanweg, SAAF, May 1953

The South African Air Force was a long time user of the Spitfire. Almost from the earliest marks. I seem to have a few SAAF aircraft, Spitfires and Hurricanes, on my shelf and it's probably due to a combination of subject and color. Typically their national markings had the red replaced with orange, and of course later the gazelle was put in the center.

And their camouflage schemes were sometimes non-standard in that they used paints more appropriate to their mission and surroundings.

The Subject

The AOS was generally used in an operational training role, teaching pilots in other types what it be like when bounced by their adversaries. Given the timeframe I admit that I'm putting 2+2 and getting 5 -- I'd like to think these Spitfires were used to mimic Yak 9 fighters the SAAF pilots might have faced over Korea.

So I fancy the idea of Spitfires and Mustangs in 1v1, 2v1, and 2v2 mock engagements over Langebaanweg operating areas; then the Mustangs deploying off to Korea for operations. These LF Mk IXe were used from about 1948-1953. Some online and decal sources call these aircraft Mk XVI because they are rear view aircraft, but in actuality the only aircraft provided to SAAF were LF Mk IXe, both standard and rear view, with pointed/broad chord rudders.

I don't know the original serial number of 5531, but it was one of a batch of 136 provided to the SAAF just after the war.

The Model

This was meant to be a quick build, one of many Heller XVI kits I've got in my stash, picked up for about $2 each at swap tables. The Heller kit is fairly accurate, the only real issues are raised panel lines, sparse decals in the cockpit and wheel bays and the radiator baths are too deep.

The radiator baths are the most obvious fix that must be done. The other details were not an issue for me; I wanted to display this model in flight so the wells would be covered up and the cockpit would have a pilot in it, hiding any detail that might have been added.

The fix for the radiators is really straight forward. Cut them off, then glue them back on. Generally the thickness of most razor saws is enough to compensate for their deepness. It appears the the baths are more accurate for a Griffon Spitfire, and may have been an error introduced when Heller was researching the Belgian Spitfires, who had a mix of XVI and XIV airframes. At any rate, the Heller kit looks wrong if these are left alone, but if corrected it becomes a very attractive model.

I took care to ensure I didn't lose much of the raised detail, and replaced any I'd lost due to seam filling. The pilot and raised landing gear are from an Airfix Mk IXc kit.

The scheme is Extra Dark Sea Grey over Medium Sea Grey. I used Humbrol paints, a mix for the EDSG (to a tin of Hu123, add 1 ml Hu34 + 0.5 ml Hu25) and Hu165 for the MSG. The spinner is Hu25. Acrylics throughout, applied via airbrush.

The decals are from AlleyCat, sheet 72009. They went on quite well using Revell's Decal Soft.

The clear stand is from Airfix.

Summary

Another enjoyable build. Very easy and different on my shelf. The club theme was "Korean War" -- any subject from that conflict. This was a stretch, but I'd already done the FR.47 Seafire.

Thanks for looking...

Spitfires in Space

Okay, how strange can that be? Well, if you follow Dr Who then anything is possible.

It seems that back in the 2010 season there was an episode where the Daleks are watching humans during the Battle of Britain; and in a bit of alternative history, the Battle is raging on into the mid-40's with no US or USSR involvement in the war. In other words, both sides seem to be stuck and it's because of the Daleks, one is led to believe.

At any rate, there is of course some sort of death ray, a robot who doesn't realize he's not human, the Dr in a frenzy to save humanity, but of course to me the star of the show was not the Dr, or the beautiful companion, but the Spitfire that plays a crucial part in, yes, saving Britain once again at her darkest hour.

The Aircraft

A basic Mk IXc, (so it must be 1943 or 1944) modified to 1) operate in the vacuum and zero gravity of space; and 2) fitted with laser cannons because we all know the 20mm Hispanos won't work in space and would be ineffective against the death ray.

Okay, that last bit is true Dr Who, requiring we suspend physics just a bit as well as some common sense. I mean gee whiz, if we can make an aspirated Merlin, unpressurized cockpit, and a FLYING machine work in a vacuum with no gravity, then surely we can make a 20mm cannon work...but then again that wouldn't be as cool would it?

Modifications include a "gravity bubble generator" behind the cockpit (located on frame 12) that not only provides the necessary gravity to offset lack of lift from the wing but also the atmosphere for both the engine and cockpit. Additionally the inboard cannon were removed (but mechanisms retained to allow "normal" use inside the atmosphere) and the outboard bay has the laser cannon. There is a bulge for it, and it's a bit bigger than a standard bulge.

It appears only 3 airframes were modified. Only 1 survived the attack on the Dalek space ship. It was piloted by an unnamed pilot, who's call sign was "Danny Boy". His aircraft was MK392, JE-J. But instead of a Canadian maple leaf under the wind screen there was a large Union Jack with the Wing Commander's pennant just forward on the right side.

Since this either pre-dates the D-Day invasion, or supersedes it, then no identification stripes were on the airframe.

The Model

Hmm, so which kit could I use...oh right! The Airfix Mk IXc kit (A02065) not only has the basic kit, but also the right decals (with exception of the Union Jack).

The mods I made were to remove the cannon bulges and replace with larger Mk Vb cannon bulges over the outboard cannon breech. I then found suitable beads from a craft shop to replicate the laser cannon "barrels" and put stubs on the inner cannons. I then put a piece of clear sprue at frame 12 and painted it to resemble the gravity generator from the show.

The show's Spitfire attack sequence is all very quick, and shifts back and forth between the Dr, Sir Winston Churchill in his bunker and the Spitfires during their attack. I was able to pull some stills from the video, but they are not as clear as I'd like. So I used some artistic license.

I completed the model in a flying mode, since there are no photographs of the modified MK392 on the ground (must have been really top secret you know).

Other than the Union Jack, this model is complete, which is why I'm blogging it. I haven't found the Jack yet but I'm looking, albeit not hard.

I brush painted the entire model. I wanted to see how well I could do with a brush painted base coat (the Sea Grey, Medium) with the Ocean Grey and Dark Green on top of that. I did air brush the Sky band and spinner, because I was painting another Spitfire's undersides at the time...

The yellow leading edge was the most difficult. It actually covered well, but was just a bear to get right. Ultimately I ended up sanding it back down and starting over, but instead of masking just painted the edge freehand.

All paints are Humbrol Acrylics. Sky is Hu90 with 2ml of Hu34 added to the pot and a drop of Hu40. Dark Green is Hu116. Sea Grey Medium is Hu165; Ocean Grey is Hu106. I added a bit of Windsor & Newton flow improver to the mixing tray (not into the pot) as I brushed it on and while it took a few coats it looked right after the 2nd, but looked great after the 3rd coat. Not as smooth as an air brush finish, but then again I didn't use the air brush.

Summary

This was a very fun build. I thoroughly enjoyed it. It took me back to my early days when models were about imagination. Not quite a weekend build, but it did go quickly. The most difficult aspect (apart from the Union Jack decal) is the right bead for the laser cannon barrels.

This was for a theme in our club of "Science Fiction". Any subject that was science fiction; either book, film or television. What's left for the Spitfire?

Thanks for looking...

RAF Dark Earth: A good hobby paint match?

13 October, 2013

As promised below, I've added a photo comparing the appearance of Vallejo 921 to Humbrol 29.  The Dark Green is both cases is Vallejo 893.  All paint was air brushed.  Both models have a coat of Future/Klear as a varnish to ensure the sheen is the same.

As I mentioned below, Vallejo 921 (on the right) is darker than Humbrol 29, and when brush painted the Vallejo was greener, but not noticeably redder, as is evident in the photo.  It is also redder in real life.

So how does it stack up?  Well, Vallejo 921 matches the paint chip from the RAF Museum.  It looks the part, in my mind's eye, better than does Humbrol 29.  I am however trained to consider Humbrol 29 as the "correct" shade of Dark Earth.

28 September, 2013

A recent thread on BritModeler offered the possibility that my favorite Dark Earth, Humbrol's 29, has drifted away from the correct shade of dark earth. So, armed with all my favorite acrylics and a couple of mixing jars, I decided to do a comparison.

My color standard is a chip from the RAF Museum's book, "British Aviation Colurs of World War Two". First published in 1976 it's possible to get a second hand copy, as I did, from online auctions. It's a treasure if as a modeler you want to have colors that match.

My method of comparison is using my eyeball under both artificial and natural light. I brush the paint onto a sheet of card and simply lay the card on the color chip.

The paints I use/have at hand are:

• Humbrol 29
• Vallejo 921
• PollyScale 505252
• Model Master 4846
• Gunze H72
• Tamiya mix of XF52 and XF64 (equal parts)

Hu29 has been my standard for Dark Earth for over a decade.  Prior to that I used Gunze's H72 for the handful of RAF types on my shelf.  Once I started paying attention to color accuracy, I realized Hu29 would look better, and it WAS different than H72, being darker and richer.

Hu29 is generally accepted as the standard paint, but against the RAF Museum (the Standard), Hu29 is grayer and browner. It's almost a chocolat color when overlaid on the chip. Unlike the Standard, there does not seem to be a hint of green to Hu29.

Valejo 921 is a near perfect match. Next to the other dark earth paints, Valejo 921 looks greener. Which may be why during the war there was some indication that Olive Drab would be an acceptable substitute for Dark Earth.  I've never used Valejo 921 other than with a brush on details requiring some shade of dark brown.

PS 505252 is darker than the standard, just a bit browner albeit with a hint of green.  I've used it for variation, many years ago, on an AVG P-40C.

MM 4846 is labeled ANA 617 Dark Earth. It is identical in every respect to PS 505252 being just a bit browner with a hint of green.  I've never used it, but purchased it when trying to find the "right" Dark Earth around 2002.

H72 is lighter and browner than the Standard, it's not close to any of the other paints. At best I'd call it a light earth color.  I'd been using this jar of paint since the early '90s.

Finally, I used the formula for mixing Tamiya (my preferred paint) that Tamiya recommends. The resulting color is a very red brown, not much different than XF64.  So I don't consider this a very good match to anything other than a red brown.

Since I like Tamiya paints, I did try adding more XF52 (8 parts total), but that was marginally better as the color was still a red brown. I then added 1 part XF19 (Sky Grey) which was also only a marginal improvement. Finally, I decided to add 5.5 parts XF81 (Dark Green) which only got the color to approximately where both PS 505252 and MM 4846 are. I believe some yellow would get it there, but the jar is full and I don't have any Tamiya yellow handy...

Other than a few minor applications I've never used Valejo. I will try it soon on a Spitfire to see how the scheme looks with a proper Dark Earth shade and I'll update this posting with side by side photos of a Spitfire with Humbrol 29.

Thanks for looking...

Progress, even if just a little bit, is still progress

Well, that sounds cynical when I say it out loud.

My shipment showed up at the end of April and I finally got my kits out, the ones I'd started last year and packed up for the shipment across the pond. Everything arrived in good shape, and other than some key supplies like masking fluid and decal setting solutions, I got up and modeling by mid May.

So why am I just now, in July, providing a real update? Progress has been slow as I enjoy the Lake District and do some walking in the fells, which is competing with my modeling time. Work takes me to another city at least one night a week, but I've devised a way to bring a kit to work on in my hotel room. I'm actually starting to "ramp up" on my production.

The Airfix Mk Va conversion is almost done, just need to finish the canopy and decals.

The Airfix PR XIII conversion is in a similar state, just needing another try at the canopy; the first looked okay until I masked and painted it. I was quite proud of how the vac canopy looked, too. That'll be another day of trimming and sanding...

The AZModel Mk VIII is ready for decals and final assembly of the fiddly bits.

The CMR Speed Spitfire is ready for the blue, now that the silver has cured. Need to start on the vac canopy...

The Three Mk IX's (2 Airfix and 1 AZmodel) are almost ready for paint.

The AZModel cannon armed Mk I is ready for primer.

In the queue are an AZModel Mk Vb, Sword Mk Vc and Seafire IIc, AZModel and Airfix Mk Ia, MPM FR XVIII, Airfix Mk VI conversion, and an Airfix Hawk T.1 in 19 Squadron Spitfire commemorative markings. All of which has at least a cockpit and most have a fuselage together with a wing assembly.

Not as far along as I'd hoped before I left the States, but considering I'm barely 10 weeks since I got my stuff...and six of these kits are new starts since my arrival...I'm happy with the progress.

My cottage has a few shelves, I may be able to display a dozen or so at any given time. I'd planned for that and actually brought some storage boxes for the kits once I'm ready to cycle them out and put new ones on. Some I'll take back to the States for show-n-tell if I'm home during the meetings.

I brought all my Spitfire kits here to complete during my tenure. That's the goal anyway, a guy can dream!

Until next time...

Mk Vc, VF-R, 5th FS, 52nd FG, February 1944

Back in late 2004 I wanted to model a Mk Vc, but unfortunately nobody made one.  Okay, to be fair, Airfix provided their Mk Vc(t) which was their Vb with that atrociously thick blob of a wing.  I actually attempted that kit and the result was pretty poor, as expected.

Earlier that year I'd begun a number of Spitfires, and starting building my stash of Spitfires and Seafires.   Only a couple of years before that I'd had only 1 Spitfire in my collection and it was on my shelf.  An '80's build of the Airfix Vb.  But there didn't seem to be a decent Vc.


So after studying a CMR Seafire IIc kit I realized the c wing from it was identical to a Vc (that would be a real "duh" moment today!).  Since I'd made the realization that the Revell Vb kit was inaccurate but detailed (cheap yes, no gull wing, though) I considered my first cross-kit by marrying the Seafire's c wing to the Revell fuselage.

An expensive option, yes.  But I was lucky enough to get a free wing out of the effort by publishing my build article for WestCoastHobbys and sharing the info with Petr at CMR.  My hope was a resin conversion set from CMR but Petr assured me other things were in the works...I'm sure that meant Sword's Vc, ultimately.

The Subject

Spitfire Mk Vc, VF-R, 5th Fighter Squadron, 52nd Fighter Group, USAAF, Italy, February 1944.  Flown by Lt John Anderson who achieved 2 kills over Me-109's on 15th February.  The aircraft has a non-standard camouflage scheme of a dark green, brown and sand to a non-standard pattern.

It's possible the colors are RAF Dark Green, Dark Earth and Middlestone, or alternatively USAAF ANA 613 Olive Drab, a brown, and ANA 616 Sand.  Or a mix of USAAF and RAF paints or even captured Italian paints.

The underside is thought to be a light blue, possibly a lightened ANA 609 Azure Blue, or RAF Sky Blue or an Italian light blue.

The Model

Since I had a few Revell Vb kits laying around, and the kit is reasonably detailed I cut the lower fuselage until the CMR wing would fit.  Like nearly all Spitfire kits in a single scale, the wings and fuselages are interchangeable and this made construction very easy.

Once I was satisfied with the wing/fuselage fit, I made the kit per the instructions.  

Masking and painting was straightforward.  I used Testors Model Master paints all around, specifically ANA 613 Olive Drab, RAF Dark Earth, and a lightened ANA 609 Azure Blue.  For the Sand color, I used an Italian Sand by Aeromaster that I had on hand.  I thought it would look better than MiddleStone, and it did.  It actually had that "desert pink" look to it next to the Olive Drab, so probably wasn't far from the basic ANA color.

The decals are from Rising Decals 72-019, Yankee Spitfires Corsica & Italy, 1943-1944.  It has a number of unique subjects on this sheet, I've already done one other and plan to do the other two.

Summary

This was an easy build and is an unique subject for a Spitfire.  I've since made another Vc using the Aeroclub wing with the Revell fuselage and both of these are as easy as the Sword Vc to build, albeit not quite as accurate.  If you can find the Aeroclub wing the price of the Revell+Aeroclub is better than the Sword kit.

Thanks for looking...

RAF Dark Green: a good hobby paint match?

5 May 2013

Edit: I've completed my switch to acrylics, and have looked at more paints to match RAF Dark Green.

I've also acquired a copy of British Aviation Colours of World War Two, Crown Copyright, 1976.  My edition has the color chips in a fold-out in the back.

I checked my acrylic paint samples, against a similar white background and compared each.  The colors I looked at are:

• Humbrol 116
• Humbrol 163
• PollyScale 5250
• Tamiya XF81
• Model Master 4849
• Vallejo 892
• Vallejo 893

Hu 116 is a perfect match.  Hu 163 is darker but only slightly so and could be an acceptable substitute.  PS 5250 is darker still than Hu 163.  XF81 is darker and slightly greener.  MM 4849 is very much greener.  Vallejo's 892 is very much greener and a close match to MM 4849, while 893 is a perfect match.

I also compared FS34079 to the swatch; it is greener and darker than the swatch.  Interestingly, PS 5250 is a near perfect match to FS34079, yet against the Dark Green swatch does not look as far off.

My last test was to compare to FS14056, a suggested FS color for DuPont T1-013, the US equivalent color to Dark Green that was used on the P-40 and some other US built aircraft.  Of note, I do not have a swatch of DuPont T1-013 for comparison.  Vallejo's 892 was a near match with MM 4849 being close enough to be the same.

Summary

Having a reference swatch for comparison, versus a generally accepted paint, is very informative.

Humbrol's enamel 116 is a perfect match to FS34079, which is NOT a match to RAF Dark Green.

Humbrol's acrylic 116 and Vallejo's 893 are both a perfect match to RAF Dark Green.

If modeling a US build aircraft in DuPont T1-013 Dark Green, and if FS14056 is the correct match, then Vallejo's 892 or Model Master 4849 are good matches.

Original - 18 August 2011

There is plenty of debate over which dark green hobby paint most closely matches RAF Dark Green. The IPMS Stockholm site (here) recommends Humbrol (Hu) 116 for the WWII timeframe and Hu 163 for post war (after the High Speed Silver phase, IMHO). That site is getting dated, but most folks swear by the cross reference as still fairly useful.

Tamiya XF-81 is supposed to be a pretty good match and some folks swear by any FS34079 match. I've yet to use Tamiya XF-81 but it looks the same to my eye as Hu 116. Hu 163 looks darker and bluer to my eye than Hu 116, but only ever so slightly and that could be due to its satin sheen versus the matte sheen of Hu 116. FS34079 seems too olive when compared to Hu 116 and even more so next to Hu 163.

Model Master RAF Dark Green looks more like just another FS34079. Pollyscale Dark Green (5250) is identical to Hu 116.

Some day I may try the Vallejo line as I do like the consistency of the paint and the color choices are extensive. Unfortunately they are not readily available as I don't have a local hobby shop.

Until my Hu 116 is depleted, I'll stick with it.  After that I'm shifting to Tamiya XF-81 because it's a) a near match, and b) acrylic.

Thanks for looking...

Early Spitfire Mk I K9794, WZ-T, 19 Squadron

Airfix Spitfire Mk I/IIa (kit #A02010)

Spitfire Mk I K9794, WZ-T, 19 Squadron RAF, Duxford, August 1938

This is the new tooling of the Mk I from Airfix, their second issue with the bits to make either an early Mk I, late Mk Ia or the IIa.  I completed this kit back in 2011 as part of an Airfix Group Build, and secondly to respond to a fellow modeler who had attempted to build the kit but was frustrated and felt it was an awful mess.

This was my second build of this kit, the other being the earlier Mk Ia release (A01071A) that I'd modified to the Mk IIa using 3D-Kits upgrade set.

The Subject
During the Munich crisis of 1938 19 Squadron prepared for a potential war by toning down the national markings -- specifically the roundels -- to the National Marking I consisting of the Red/Blue roundel in 4 positions on the top of the wings and sides of the fuselage.  Additionally, the undersides were painted Night/White, but due to balance concerns the ailerons and elevators remained Aluminum Dope.

K9794 was from the original production batch, the 8th Spitfire produced (not including the prototype).  According to Morgan & Shacklady, K9794 was assigned to 19 Squadron immediately after production on 18 August 1938; it crashed on landing 10 January 1939 and was subsequently struck off charge 18 April 1939.

K9794 was delivered, and probably operated its entire career, with a Merlin II engine fitted with the two blade fixed pitch propeller.  It had the original pole radio aerial mast for the HF TR9D radio.

The Model
Quite a bit has already been written about this kit.  While very accurate in shape and having very good detail for this scale, the main detraction are the very deep and wide panel lines.  If brush painting the model (as will most of Airfix's target buyers for this kit) the panel lines get filled and ultimately are not as noticeable.  I'm a bit ham-fisted when it comes to sanding and filling so don't mind the deep panel lines, given the soft plastic.  If it were a harder plastic I'd like the panel lines to be less deep/wide.  And…there be a definite difference between the three types of "panel lines": 1) control surface gaps, 2) removable panels, and 3) skin joints.  They should all be small in this scale, with the largest being the first and the near invisible on the last.

The kit goes together fairly straightforward, however admittedly the cockpit frames are a bit too large for the insides of the fuselage.  My solution, used on every Spitfire model I build, is to start with the tail and work forward using liquid poly cement.  For this kit I prepped the interior and completed the cockpit items as two separate pieces, instead of one per the instructions (step 1).

After gluing the seat and rear frame in, I then fit the fuselage to the wings (NO GLUE!) to ensure the fit is right, shimming as needed.  This kit needs none.

I then fit the front instrument panel/frame into the fuselage and clamp the fuselage to ensure it fits properly.  If the instrument panel/frame is too wide, I sand it a bit to make it fit.  An improper fit will cause the whole fuselage to distort, actually making it not only wider at the top (requiring filler) but too narrow at the wing roots, requiring more filler at the wings, or if too wide will eliminate the proper dihedral of the wings.  This kit really needs no filler, however due to the too wide frames the wing uppers are pushed out, causing a "flat" or no dihedral.

This next photo is of the fuselage with cockpit glued but the fuselage only dry fitted to the wings.  Notice the lack of dihedral and leading edge openings due to distortion.

The solution is to sand the fuselage wing root carefully until it fits.

Perfect!  Glue it up and prime.

No seams and no loss of detail.

The remainder of construction was straight forward and very easy.  Instead of using the decals from the kit, which depict K9794 in a transitory state with only a single roundel, I decided to use some spare decals from my CMR Mk I kit that represented a more typical scheme.  Paints used were Humbrol enamels, Hu29 for Dark Earth, Hu116 for Dark Green for the upper surface camouflage.  The other colors were black, white and aluminum paints from my paint shelf.






Summary
This is a great kit that represents the early Merlin a-winged Spitfires.  Out of the box many variants and schemes can be made (I plan to do most of them!) and with just a modicum of aftermarket nearly all variants of the a-winged Spitfire can be done.

My only niggle is the lack of gun blast deflectors for the outer most guns.  Very prominent on the Spitfire Mk I in 1938 and early 1939, only the Tamiya Mk I shows this feature properly.

Thanks for looking...

Spitfire Mk III Redux

Back in 2011 I got excited about building a Spitfire F MK III.  Why?  It’s a unique mark that is as unique as K5054 or the Speed Spitfire (K9834).  It also marks the transition from the early Mk I/II series to more significant Spitfires that came later -- The Mk IX/XVI and ultimately the Griffon series.  Many improvements developed for the Mk III were implemented on these later variants.

In my first post on the subject, I summarized my understanding (at the time) of these airframes.  Attempting to model the radiator as a first step, I stalled when I began to learn more details and ultimately other projects came to the fore.  Sounds familiar...

What I think I know today

References: Britmodeller Forum 1, Britmodeller Forum 2, Spitfire the History

Prototype only, 2 examples built. 

N3297 was originally to be a Mk I, but the serial number was allocated as a “Superiority Spitfire” and built to the initial Mk III configuration with a Merlin XX engine. It was tested by 11 Group Fighter Command to late June, 1940. From September to February 1941 it was modified and tested in a second configuration based on 11 Group feedback with a standard wing. Then from March to September 1941 it was modified yet again with a Merlin 61 engine and later became the Mk IX prototype. 

Configuration 1:

• Merlin XX engine
• Lengthened cowl (4")
• Short span "a" wings (cut to rib 19, not just removal of tip)
• de Havilland prop, 11' diameter
• Retractable tail wheel
• Main landing gear covers (similar to K5054)
• Speed Spitfire (K9834) oil cooler
• Speed Spitfire (K9834) radiator

Some key notes on this initial configuration.  While I’m confident of the Speed Spitfire oil cooler, there is only a passing reference to use of the Speed Spitfire radiator in StH, Supermarine noting its use, already, in the Speed Spitfire.  In parallel to initial construction of N3297, the Speed Spitfire was flying with a modified Merlin and a cooling system greatly modified (enlarged) from the existing Mk I.  Since Supermarine and Rolls-Royce both knew the Merlin XX would need greater cooling it stands to reason they would use their experience with the Speed Spitfire as the starting point.  What amplifies this thought (theory really) is their obvious use of the oil cooler developed for the Speed Spitfire.  

While the larger radiator on the Speed Spitfire is deeper, and contains an interesting contour, no photo exists of it actually installed on the Mk III.  Debate favors a more radical design with boundary layer splitter, however I believe that to be a later development, more probably during her second configuration (if then), and possibly on W3237 only.

Secondly, StH refers to 4 different props considered for the initial configuration, but specifically states the DH prop as configured when tested.  Some contend the Rotol prop was used during this testing, but StH clearly states the Rotol was installed when N3297 was rebuilt.

Configuration 2 (as configuration 1 but with):

• Standard "a" wings
• 3 Blade, Rotol constant speed prop, 10' 9" diameter (Mk V standard)
• "New" radiator (not much detail on this)

Of particular note this reconfiguration was in direct response to Fighter Command’s preference for lower wing loading (they did not like the short span wings).  StH makes it clear the radiator was also changed, but to what configuration is not clear.  In parallel to W3237 (Spring 1941) StH discusses radiator testing, but it is not clear if that is on W3237 alone or additionally on N3297 (which by Spring of 1941 had gone to Rolls-Royce for another rebuild with the Merlin 61).

Configuration 3 (as configuration 2 but with):

• Merlin 61 engine (I believe length now 31' 3.5")
• Individual ejector exhausts (fishtail)
• 4 Blade, Rotol prop, 10' 9" diameter (Mk IX standard)
• Radiator probably of Mk XII type, but may have been one of the designs tested on W3237. 

At this point N3297 is beginning to look more like a Mk VIII or IX, and is considered the prototype Mk IX by early 1942.  There is never any mention of N3297 getting Mk IX type radiators, so my theory is that while testing of radiators on W3237 was ongoing, eventually something that may have looked like the deeper Mk XII radiator may have been installed.  To underscore this theory, the Mk IV (Griffon prototype) had morphed into the Mk XII prototype by this time (via a short stint as a Mk XX) and probably enjoyed the same developments in the radiator.

W3237 was similarly taken from Mk V production and built to take the Merlin XX engine, being delivered in June 1941. Eventually this airframe tested a number of technologies, resulting mainly in radiator configurations, canopy/windscreen configurations and the "c" wing design.   Apparently it was delivered with a "c" wing. Essentially it's configuration was basically a Mk Vc but with a longer cowl (4"), and depending on date could have had short, standard, or long span wings, Mk V windscreen or rounded windscreen, early Mk V or later bulged canopy, and most critically various radiator configurations. 

Since W3237 was used extensively for testing well into 1944 or even later (like N3297) I believe her radiator probably stabilized on a Mk XII design as well.  So that by sometime in 1942 she looked like a short nosed Mk XII with standard rudder and Merlin XX engine.

Paint schemes

For some reason Morgan & Shacklady, in StH, decided to note the color of N3297 in Spring/Summer 1940 as “egg shell”.  Additionally, they included a color profile of yellow topsides and black/white wings on the undersides.  While an interesting scheme it defies logic.  Besides not knowing the shade of “egg shell” (although my wife knows!) it is inconceivable that a Spitfire with 11 Group would be painted yellow on its topsides in 1940 when no other aircraft (besides trainers) would have been painted thusly.  “Egg shell” probably refers to the finish (smooth) not the color.

Debate seems to agree the more likely scheme during Spring/Summer 1940 for N3297 was the standard Fighter Command scheme of Dark Earth/Dark Green topsides over Aluminum undersides, but with Night/White wings.  

When rebuilt in the Fall 1940, agreement is around a Dark Earth/Dark Green topsides over Yellow undersides.  By the end of 1941, N3297 was likely in Dark Green/Ocean Grey over Yellow, with a yellow P in circle behind the roundel.

W3237 was probably delivered in standard Dark Earth/Dark Green topsides over Yellow undersides, and likely repainted by the end of 1941 in Dark Green/Ocean Grey over Yellow, again with a yellow P in circle behind the rounded.

Thanks for reading...

America's First WW2 Ace

Spitfire IIa, P7308/XR-D, 71 "Eagle" Squadron, 27 August 1941

There were a lot of firsts with this kit.  It was my first Airfix new tooling Spitfire Mk I, my first attempt at Spitfire IFF aerials and my first 3D-Kits upgrade.  Well, I guess all that is not really very special, but I approached this build with all this specifically in mind.

Plus, I wanted to make it for the 70th anniversary of Bill Dunn's achieving a first, as the first American Ace of World War Two.  Granted, he achieved this as a member of the Eagle Squadron flying for the RAF in late August 1941.

I built this model in the Summer of 2011, completing it mid-August.

The Subject

Pilot Officer Bill Dunn joined the RAF in late 1940, after just over a year with the Canadian Army.  After completing training in April 1941, he joined 71 "Eagle" Squadron, made up of mainly American expats prior to the entry of the US in the war.  Between May and August 1941 Bill Dunn shot down 5 German aircraft to become the first American ace.  

On 27 August, while flying P7308/XR-D, Bill Dunn returned to North Weald at the end of a mission and crash landed.  His injuries were severe and after 3 months hospitalization and 3 months leave he served as an instructor pilot in Canada and then transferred to the USAAF in June 1943.  While with the 53rd Fighter Group he flew P-47's.

Ultimately Bill Dunn completed the war with 6 official kills, served with the USAAF and USAF until 1973 when he retired.  He had some very interesting assignments post-war, including flying and fighting with the Nationalist Chinese in 1947-1949.

P7308 is a Spitfire F Mk IIa, the notable difference to the Mk I is the addition of the Coffman starter, which resulted in a visible bulge on the lower right of the engine cowling.

P7308 was delivered in the Temperate Land Scheme, Dark Green/Dark Earth over Sky undersides.  It sported the standard markings of the time, Sky fuselage band and Sky spinner with Medium Sea Grey codes.  In early August 1941 it received a repaint in the new Day Fighter Scheme of Dark Green/Ocean Grey over Medium Sea Grey undersides.  The Sky band and spinner were retained and the codes are Sky.  Of note, the timing of this subject is before the yellow identification bands on the leading edge of the wings and before the National Markings were altered.

The Model

As mentioned above, this is the new Airfix tooling of the Mk Ia from 2009.  It was initially difficult to obtain here in the US and in late 2010 I finally got my first copy.  In the meantime 3D-Kits had released a Mk I/IIa update with an improved seat, stick, Rotol propellor/spinner and bulge for the IIa as well as appropriate decals.

I built the kit per the 3D-Kit modifications and decided to plan appropriately for installing the IFF aerials.  That is the only really unique aspect of this build.  I measured the distance back from the panel line representing the station aft of the radio access hatch and drilled two small holes opposite each other on the fuselage sides.  

I built the model to include paint and decals, and planned to put the canopy on very last.  For the aerials I first superglued one end in a deepened groove that is the gap between the horn balance and horizontal stabilizer.  After that had set I then threaded the wires (actually just invisible thread) through the fuselage and fished them with tweezers out through the cockpit.  After pulling them tight I applied a small drop of superglue and set it.  After fully cured I snipped the excess and then glued the canopy on.

For painting I used Humbrol enamels: The Sky (90) band on the tail went first, was masked with tape, then Ocean Grey (106) went on.  I masked using Miskit liquid frisket and then painted on the Dark Green (116).  After removing the masks to confirm no bleed-through, I remasked and sprayed the underside Medium Sea Grey (165).  I prefer Humbrol's Ocean Grey as it has that blue tinge to it, but is not an overpowering blue-gray like Tamiya XF-82 or Model Master RAF Ocean Grey.  Both of those latter colors really seem more like grayish blues, not a gray with a blue tinge.

Weather was attempted and this is yet another failure at it.  I shall persist and someday get it right.

The 3d-Kits decals went on perfectly using Micro-Sol and Set.

Thanks for reading...

Hobby Boss Spitfire Vb

EP312/D-K, Wing Commander Dereck Kain, Edku, Egypt, 1944

This is a model I completed back in April 2011.  I purchased the Hobby Boss kit not knowing the goods or others regarding accuracy, fit, detail, et cetera.  As with most Hobby Boss kits, this one had some things not quite right.  

I approached the build from the perspective of a learning experience.  My objective was to correct where possible (er, within my skills), and expand my weathering abilities just a bit.

The Subject

W/C Kain served with the RAF beginning in 1935; flying missions over France, Dunkirk and during the Battle of Britain.  He was commander of 229 Squadron over Malta and 127 Squadron in the Western Desert.  Ultimately he transferred to the RNZAF in 1944 and was Station Chief at RAF Edku, Egypt.

During his assignment in Egypt, Ju-86P high altitude reconnaissance aircraft overflew the Nile Delta region.  The RAF was routinely attempting to intercept these aircraft and heavily modified Spitfire Vb and IX were used.  Ultimately through weight reduction, drag reduction and engine performance increases one of the modified Spitfires was able to intercept and engage a Ju-86P.  This ended their reconnaissance flights as the danger was now too great.

Spitfire Vb EP312 is one of those modified aircraft.  The modifications known to have been done are:

• Aboukir tropical filter
• Engine improvements, to include separate exhaust ejector stubs
• Very smooth paint, near gloss

This particular aircraft was probably used mainly to escort the more modified Spitfire, which usually also had the radio and IFF removed, only 2x .50 caliber guns with limited ammunition, and no paint.  It was one of these, Spitfire IX MA504, that W/C Kain flew to 47,000 feet (the subject of a future build!).

The Model

As mentioned above, this kit has issues like most Hobby Boss kits in the Easy Build range.  In this case, they are:

• Poor cockpit detail (not an issue for me)
• Cockpit canopy too high in profile
• No main landing gear doors (!?)
• Prop is inaccurate for any Spitfire

I corrected the prop via the Quickboost Rotol prop and the main landing gear doors came from a donor Revell Vb kit.  I also replaced the landing gear and wheels with resin ones from my spares box (CMR Seafire III kit).  The Aboukir filter came from the Italeri Mk Vb kit, and the exhausts came from the Italeri Mk IX kit (a good source of spares).

I chose not to replace the canopy.  It turns out most of my spares didn't fit very well and looked worse than just using the kit canopy.  I even attempted a vac canopy, but that would have revealed the inadequate cockpit so I stuck with the kit.

The scheme is standard Western Desert for 1944: Temperate Land Scheme above with Azure Blue undersides.  For the pain I used Humbrol 29 for the Dark Earth, followed by Humbrol 116 for the Dark Green.   There is no real good match for Azure Blue, so I used Model Master Azure Blue but with about 10 drops of deep red added; it seems to put just the right amount of red into the Azure to give it that purple caste most out-of-the -bottle paints lack.

I used Ad Astra Masks for the D-K lettering.  I had to paint these instead of using decals because 1) no decals are available; and 2) they are non-standard.  They worked wonderfully and I'm continually looking for projects that can take advantage of these masks.

At the time of building I was not aware the subject should be so glossy.  So I attempted some weathering (which it should NOT have) and while it was okay, I knew I had to improve.

It was still an easy build, fairly quick and very enjoyable.  Will I build another Hobby Boss Spitfire?  Probably not, given I spent the equivalent of the kit in upgrades to get it acceptable, albeit not accurate.

Thanks for reading...

Unmanned

Frog Spitfire XIVe & V-1

This was purchased as the Novo kit, but as we all know it's really the old Frog molding.  The theme is "Unmanned" -- Any subject representing an unmanned vehicle, drone, remotely piloted, missile -- you get the picture.  Since I wanted this to be a Spitfire topic I decided to build this venerable kit.

The Subjects

Spitfire F Mk XIVe
Rooted in the prototype Griffon engined mark, F Mk IV, and an interim type at that, it was the most produced variant of the Griffon series of Spitfires.  Essentially, while the F Mk IV was being developed, ultimately into the F Mk XX & 22/24 series, Supermarine mated the Griffon to the F Mk VIII airframe.  Unlike the F Mk XII, the F Mk XIV had a slightly (4 inches) longer nose to house the two-stage supercharger, 5 bladed prop to harness the added power, and a broad chord fin and rudder.

Additionally, like the two-stage Merlins, the F Mk XIV required larger radiator baths to house the intercooler as well as the oil cooler and radiators.  The retractible tail wheel was standard.

Initially built with the "c" wing of 2x 20mm cannon and 4x .303 guns, the F Mk XIVe had the strengthened wing supporting 2x 20mm cannon and 2x .50 guns.

The Frog F Mk XIVe represents serial RM619/AP*D; 130 Squadron RAF flying anti "Diver" missions against the V-1 buzz bombs in October, 1944.  My references indicate 130 Squadron may have flown an anti-Diver mission or two, but by October Divers were rare and 130 was mainly focused on ground-attack missions as part of 2 TAF.

V-1
The V-1 Buzz Bomb is essentially the world's first cruise missile.  While designed by Germany as a vengeance weapon against Great Britain, more specifically London, its use began in June 1944 and lasted until the launch sites and launch aircraft were overrun by Allied forces in October.  Over 9,500 V-1's were launched against London during this time.  Another 2,500 were launched against Antwerp between October 1944 and March 1945, when the last launch site was captured.

There are a few V-1's in museums and I've looked over them, from a distance of course.  These are very basic, but they worked.  The good news is the Allies were able to counter the threat through effective anti-aircraft, fighter interceptions and even mis-information.

The Models

Spitfire F Mk XIVe
What can I say?  Frog 1960's detail in Novo quality.  It "looks like" a Spitfire, but there are details that are not right.  And the Novo molding is not crisp and has lots of sink holes and flash.  The clear parts were neither clear, nor parts (they were just opaque blobs).

I did NOT correct this kit.  So what's wrong?

• Fuselage too narrow.  Only by about 1-1.5 millimeters, but it's obvious.
• No gull wing at trailing edge fuselage merger.  
• The wing fairing trails too far aft of the trailing edge of the wing; it has a noticeable "shelf".
• Rocker fairings are too small, and too square.
• Cockpit is just a ledge for a pilot's seat, and the bulkheads are solid.
• The wings appear too thin.
• The radiator baths are too shallow.
• Decals off register and printed too dark; they are both oversized and undersized for the model.

Additionally, the whole model "looks" too small, it may be 1/75 scale.  I compared it in plan form and yes, it's short in both span (~6 inches) and length (4 inches).  

Having ignored all that, I just built this OOB and enjoyed it.  I wanted to put it on the included stand as well, so I used the molded wheel/covers which hid the lack of detail in the wells.

Because the clear parts were not usable, I scrounged my Spitfire spares box and found an Academy canopy.  It was much too wide, and too tall, but with some careful sanding I was able to get it to fit.  It doesn't look unacceptable, given the other noticeable flaws with the kit.

Paint was Tamiya acrylics all the way, applied over a primer coat of ValSpar primer from my local hardware store.  XF-3 Yellow and XF-21 Sky were applied first, then masked.  I then sprayed XF-82 Ocean Gray [sic] overall.  Using maskol fluid I masked the Ocean Grey and sprayed XF-81 Dark Green.  Finally, I masked and sprayed XF-83 Medium Sea Gray [sic].  Overall it looks okay, however I feel the XF-82 is too blue for Ocean Grey, but I wanted to stick with the Tamiya combination for this build.

V-1
The V-1 looks great!  It looks exactly like those I've seen in museums and while I didn't measure it and don't have any plans, it looks like a V-1 and will probably be the only one I ever make.

Only 4 parts so it went together very quickly.  I used Testors Acryl RLM 71/RLM 65, which is what all the museum examples seem to be painted.  I have no idea if that's right or wrong as all the period photos I could find are dark over light.

Summary

I'll never make these kits again.  I have too many very nice F Mk XIV kits to want to attempt the Frog one and I have no real reason to make another V-1.  I may create a new stand for the V-1 so it will complement my V-2...and dispose of the Frog/Novo F Mk XIVe.

Thanks for reading...